Yearly Updates 1991 Regal After a bit of delay, a 4-door sedan finally arrived as an early ’91, different from the coupe in styling despite sharing the same chassis. With the sedan came a larger (3.8-liter) V6 engine option. Regal was the only member of the GM midsize group to offer the 3.8-liter. Coupes gained a fresh face, courtesy of a new grille (body-colored with Gran Sport package) and turn-signal lamps.

• Buick 3800 For Sale
• 3800 Series 2 For Sale

GM 3.8L-231ci-V6 Engine Torque Specs. Over 6,000 Automotive Torque Specs. Search Car Torque Specifications by Engine or Model. Jun 2, 2013 - Intense false knock kit, New, $15, Intense-racing.com 2-1 Manual band, New, $10, transmissionpartsusa.com. Input piston, NOS, $10, EBAY 2 M6 pan bolts, New, $8, Intense-racing.com. Sprag retainer ring, New, $6, local GM dealer. Sonnax TC relief valve, New, $5, tripleedgeperformance.com.

1992 Regal Gran Sport was now a full-fledged model. Antilock braking became standard on the Gran Sport and Limited, but remained an option for Custom Regals.

1993 Regal A new electronic 4-speed automatic transmission went into ’93 Regals, which also exhibited a redesigned grille and rode standard 15-inch tires. Reworked rear bumpers and taillights looked more like those on the bigger LeSabre.

1994 Regal Finally, Regals got a driver-side airbag, as well as standard antilock braking (ABS was formerly optional on the Custom). Despite the airbag, automatic seatbelts were retained. Limiteds now came only in sedan form. The Custom base engine gained 20 horsepower. Power windows were standard, and power locks would unlock automatically as the transmission was shifted into park. 1995 Regal Dual airbags arrived for ’95 in a modified interior that featured a new dashboard and seats.

Coupes now came in Custom and Gran Sport trim; sedans in all three price levels. 1996 Regal Regal’s 3.8-liter engine, again standard in the Limited and Gran Sport but optional in the Custom, gained 35 horsepower, now totaling 205. This year’s lineup includes a Custom coupe and sedan, plus sedans in Limited and Gran Sport guise. The 1996 Regal saw extended production as an all-new 1997 1/2 Regal appeared late.

Only a 3.1-liter V6 was available in 1990 Regals, making 135 horsepower. A year later, Regals could be purchased with a 170-horsepower “3800” V6, which was essentially the same engine used in the Park Avenue and Riviera. That upper engine got a boost to 205 horsepower for ’96.

Meanwhile, the base engine gained five horsepower for 1991, reaching 140. For 1994, output grew by 20, to 160 horsepower, courtesy of a new fuel-injection system.

A 4-speed automatic was the only transmission available, but electronic controls did not arrive until 1993 when the optional 3.8-liter engine rose a bit in torque output to 225 pound-feet. A massive power boost emerged for 1996 in the 3.8-liter engine, which got new valves and roller rocker arms and developed 205 horsepower. Front-seat room is generous, and the rear is adequate for 6-footers.

Both body styles are roomy, but leg and head room are better in the sedan, though the lower cushion feels puny for long-distance comfort. Front shoulder belts in the sedan were anchored to door pillars, so belts could ride on the neck of shorter passengers. Wide front pillars compromise visibility.

The initial Regal’s lack of power was remedied by the arrival of the 3.8-liter engine in 1992. It gives the car sufficient oomph to accelerate smartly away from stoplights and pass safely. The early 3.1-liter, in contrast, sounds strained when a brisk getaway is called for, generating more noise than power.

With the electronically controlled automatic installed in 1993, shifts grew swifter and smoother. Gas mileage is better with the 3.1-liter. We’ve averaged better than 20 mpg. The 3.8-liter yielded no more than 17-18 mpg.

Analog instrumentation in early Regals is not the greatest and some instruments are blocked by the steering wheel. The optional electronic cluster has poorly designed graphics and has to squeeze into the same tight space.

Climate controls also are far to the right, but have big buttons. The new interior for 1995 cured many of these complaints. Ride/handling aren’t bad, even with the base suspension. It seems to strike a sensible compromise between soft ride and capable handling, though slanting toward the former. Steering is on the light side, and the car leans heavily in turns. The firmer Gran Sport suspension provides taut handling and a well-controlled ride, but gets a bit harsh when rolling through pavement irregularities.

Antilock braking works well, but takes high pedal pressure for a quick stop. Trouble Spots Automatic transmission Description: 4T60E transmissions may drop out of drive while cruising, shift erratically, or have no second, third, or fourth gear because of a bad ground connection for the shift solenoids. (1991-94) Automatic transmission Description: 440-T4 automatic transmissions may shift late or not upshift at all. The problem is a stuck throttle valve inside the transmission. (1990-92) Coolant leak Description: The 3.8-liter V6 may leak coolant into the engine from the intake manifold.

A new gasket kit, revised throttle body nuts, and sealing compound is available. Redesigned manifolds are also available in the aftermarket. (1993-96) Coolant leak Description: Coolant loss via plastic intake manifold is corrected by installing upgraded manifold and gaskets plus new PCV kit. (1995-96) Engine noise Description: Bearing knock was common on many 3.8-liter engines due to too much clearance on the number one main bearing. (1992-94) Engine noise Description: An intermittent rattle at start up may be due to too much wrist pin-to-piston clearance. (1994-95) Engine noise Description: An intermittent rattling noise at start up is often caused by automatic-transmission pump starvation or cavitation, or a sticking pressure-regulator valve. (1991-95) Oil consumption Description: Models with the 3.8-liter engine are prone to excessive oil consumption often accompanied by spark knock during normal driving conditions due to failure of the valve-stem seals.

(1993-95) Steering noise Description: The upper bearing mount in the steering column can get loose and cause a snapping or clicking that can be both heard and felt. (1994-96) Transaxle leak Description: The right front axle seal at the automatic transaxle is prone to leak and GM issued a revised seal to correct the problem. (1992-94) Valve cover leaks Description: The plastic valve covers on 3.1-liter engines were prone to leaks and should be replaced with redesigned aluminum valve covers. Recall History 1990 Description: Brake lights may not illuminate, or will not stay lit all the time when brakes are applied, due to faulty switch. 1990 w/Kelsey-Hayes steel wheels Description: Cracks may develop in wheel mounting surface; if severe, wheel could separate from car.

1990 Description: Front shoulder belt may not properly restrain passenger in an accident. 1990-91 Description: Steering shaft could separate from steering gear. 1991 Description: Front-door shoulder-belt guide loops may be cracked. 1991 in 15 states Description: Corrosion due to road salt could allow one or both front engine-cradle bolts to pull through their retainers; steering shaft could possibly separate from steering gear.

1992 Description: Reverse servo apply pin of 4-speed automatic transmission may bind, which could cause loss or slipping of reverse, poor performance, or transmission to remain in reverse while indicator shows neutral. 1993 Description: Manual recliner mechanisms on some front seats will not latch under certain conditions, causing seatback to recline without prior warning. 1993-95 Description: Replace clear front side-marker bulbs with amber. 1994-95 Description: Rear brake hoses can contact suspension components and wear through, resulting in loss of brake fluid. 1994-95 Description: Strained wire can cause intermittent or nonexistent wiper/washer operation.

1995 Description: On a few cars, steering-column support bolts could vibrate, loosen, or fall out. 1995 Description: Center-rear-seatbelt anchor plate could fracture in a crash. 1995 Description: Seatbelt anchor can fracture during crash. 1995-96 Description: The driver’s airbag could deploy inadvertently and injure the driver. 1996 Description: Left front brake line can contact transaxle mounting bracket or bolt, causing line to wear through, resulting in loss of fluid and eventual loss of half the brake system. 1996 w/3.8-liter V6 Description: Backfire can break upper intake manifold, resulting in possible fire.

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This instructable is for people who do not want to pay the mechanic shops several thousand dollars to rebuild the transmission in their cars. If you have some basic ( and specialty tools that can be easily bought), then you can rebuild your transmission yourself and save a few thousand dollars. I did not do this rebuild, I found the information to do this and wanted to let everyone know how to do this. To give credit where credit is due please go to And thank member agrazela for his mechanical know how. This Instructable is for rebuilding the 1997-2003 4t650e-HD transmission!!!

If you do not have a 4t650e-HD ( I have the plain 4t650e, and it’s from 2004) and or it is a 2004 and up THIS WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU!!!! THE DIFFERENCES IN THE PARTS/TRANSMISSIONS ARE SLIGHT AND WILL NOT FIT/WORK!! The differences in the design will also leave you stuck somewhere in the middle of your rebuild and in need of a new transmission. I am in no way responsible for anyone following this instructable, you do so at your own risk and/or expense. 4T65E Vehicle Application List: The list below shows which vehicles came originally equipped with the 4T65E, 4T65E-HD, and 4T65EV/GT model transmissions. Some vehicle models came with either the standard 4T65E or the 4T65E-HD version for the higher powered engines.

Some of the minivans listed below had an AWD (All Wheel Drive) option. The Volvo models listed had an optional Gear-Tronic version which provided manual shifting typically found on the turbocharged models. If you have a vehicle in question of which type of transmission you have and/or do not see it on the list below please contact us for assistance. Manufacturer Model Year Range Transmission Buick Century 2000-2004 4T65E Buick LaCrosse,Allure 2005-2008 4T65E. Bought during rebuild Clutch compressor, $35, EBAY /METRIC SOCKET SET Digital caliper, $15, Harbor freight Nylon resize rings (fail), $8, EBAY Seal puller, $5, Harbor freight Assembly goo, $5, transmissionpartsusa.com NOTE FROM ME!!!!

This is a fix to the problem the Author had when he needed to have this tool to have more length. I took the clutch tool pictured below and added the extra threaded rod on the bottom to get around the issue that Andrew found with it not being long enough to take out the 3rd/input clutches.

OK, so I'll go through the book step-by-step, with my inspection notes and pics on the dismantle. (I did not get a picture of everything, so if anyone wants me to go back and snap a photo of something, let me know) Torque converter: JTFM 258mm TC. Looks OK on the outside and in the teeth, but the bearing has some nicks in it. Probably best used as a core for a reman.

Reverse Servo: OK. Forward Servo: OK. Pan: OK; cleaned up great. May investigate getting a drain plug welded into it. Two M6 bolts missing, but threaded holes in case all OK, and can get $2 replacement bolts from Intense. Pan Gasket in excellent shape after cleaning, and can be reused. Oil filter: No alarms; see previous post(s).

Accumulator assembly and 2-1 Band Servo: OK. After I get new piston seals out of an Overhaul kit, I'll probably swap this unit in it's entirety into the current trans and swap in the current trans' unit with Thrasher shift kit already installed. Control Valve Body Cover (Side Cover): OK. Very grimy, but cleaned up fine. Gasket in great shape after cleaning, and can be reused. Had a W-body specific mount bolted to it, will probably give away or sell mount.

Wiring Harness: Screwed that puppy up; all the little plastic retaining clips to the solenoids were very brittle, and as careful as I tried to be I broke every last one of them:This harness will find use as part of a solenoid test apparatus. I bought a replacement used 14-pin harness for $15 shipped from an EBAY seller I have bought good parts from before; it checks out OK. Spare pump I bought is p/n 24213197 (cover) and 24210098 (body). My research indicates this is the mid-98 to '02/'03 style pump update, before GM went to some kind of 3-piece pump.I note that the pump slide in the spare pump does not have any grooves, nor do the vanes have ridges.

I also note the newer pump cover has a 'bypass' groove cast into it, which I like. I can interchange pump covers; however, pump slides/vanes/rotors are not interchangeable because they are factory matched to the depth of each pump body coming off the assembly line. These pumps seem to be worn similarly otherwise. I'll likely go ahead and use the spare pump. 1-2, 3-4 Shift Solenoid and 1-2 Shift Valve: Solenoid clicks when 12v applied; will probably replace anyway (about $20) to be safe. Shift valve and bore OK. Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) Solenoid and Torque Signal Regulator Valve: This solenoid clicks, too; however, it is always recommended to replace this one (about $50) on a rebuild.

This solenoid is year specific (97-02, or 03+). Regulator valve looks good and the bore is fine. Line Pressure Relief Valve: All OK. Torque Converter Control / Pulse Width Modulator (TCC/PWM) Solenoid and Torque Converter Control (TCC) Valve:Solenoid clicks, but again, always replace this one on a rebuild (about $40). And the third I think was in this location (black arrow) on the TCC regulator apply valve:I have discovered via TSB and from forum discussion that these 'extra clips' were used to temporarily hold in valves during manual assembly (to keep the springs compressed while the end caps / retainers were installed further down the assembly line). Their locations do not affect the operation of the given valves.

Perhaps they were supposed to be hand-removed at the factory after the VB was assembled, but were not. Or were not removed because they don't affect operation. In any case, they do not need to be reinstalled.

All in all, I didn't see anything in the valve body that I'd consider a project killer. On to other things. Transmission Range Switch: This is the one that sits on top of the trans case, right where the shifter cable attaches. Took it through all the gear positions and it checked out according to the signal matrix in the FSM; OK. Transmission Manifold Fluid Pressure Switch:This funky thing has 6 separate pressure switches.

It bolts to the top of the valve body and monitors whether the fluid is actually in the channels the PCM thinks it's in:lol: The FSM has a signal matrix based on what combo of these pressure switches are pressed. Three of these switches are 'normally open.' These functioned flawlessly. The turbine shaft looks good, and with my anticipated power level I do not see the need for a high-dollar aftermarket upgrade. Sprockets look good, too; but I'm going to replace the 37 drive / 33 driven with 35/35 stockers (like from a GPGT or n/a H-Body) to wind up with 3.29's.

I expect to spend $75 to $100 for these sprockets; and I don't see the need to spend big $$$ on a single-chain 'race' setup here. Speed Sensor Reluctor wheel:The pins are good and tight. Important thing to check, because if this comes loose off the drive sprocket, it can ruin chains, sprockets, and/or the case cover.

If that roll pin falls out, then this pinion:Is free to sling out of the diff carrier and bust your extension housing. Alternatively, sometimes the spider gears sieze to or wear down the pinion and the gears or pinion itself breaks. None of these things is good, all are caused or accelerated by rough treatment, and this is why we are all warned not to do one-wheel burnouts:wink: There are aftermarket limited slip differentials (LSD); but from what I've read the clutch-based ones do not have a good track record for longevity, and the true posi-lock GM Torsen diffy costs more than my car is worth. There are also aftermarket beefed-up output shafts, half axles, etc., but I'm not expecting to need any of that. Installing an ATF-soaked new inner seal using a specially homemade tool (aka, very small flatblade that I ground all sharp edges off of): NOTE FROM AUTHOR USE electrical tape to further wrap around screwdriver or rubber coat it. Or just buy a lip seal removal tool.It is crucial to get these lip seals seated properly, so that they sit in the groove with the lip sticking out all the way around. It's also crucial not to nick or cut the seals; in some cases, I temporarily wrapped shafts in electrical tape while sliding on the seals to avoid running seals over grooves or sharp edges.this was in lieu of buying up all kinds of specialty Kent Moore J-tool seal protectors and slides.

Also, you have to make sure that inner lips seat inside pistons properly and do not 'roll up' as you reinstall the pistons.another use for the rounded-off flatblade. Pre-soaked input clutches all in place:All the reassembly in this post took me four hours, which is about 36 hours less than I thought it would take me.

I will credit that to my awesome cardboard box and ziploc bag organizational system.:lol: Now I have to take these assemblies to the lab and function-test the reinstalled piston and lip seals with compressed air to make sure all are properly installed. If they pass, then the most screw-uppable part of reassembly (IMO) is done, and I can order up all the Sonnax fixes and solenoids for the valve body.

I believe these clamps are making a depression or 'divot' (red arrow) and a 'hump' (green arrow) in the rings:I tried letting them sit a few days; then sit again overnight bathed in ATF; but they are just not reforming properly to make a seal. I thought about getting new sealing rings (or a kit) and trying again, maybe with strips of neoprene between the clamp and the ring; but these rings are not exactly cheap enough for such experimentation, and the proper j-tools are extremely uncheap. So I'm likely going to send the hub and the shaft in to Dave at tripleedgeperformance.com to install and size all 6 new rings for me. NOTE FROM AUTHOR: YOU CAN DO WHAT THE PERSON DID HERE, OR SPEND THE $50-80 ON THE RESIZING TOOL, IF YOU PLAN ON REBUILDING YOUR TRANSMISSION AGAIN So the Trannyman's going to install all six new seals on the hub and shaft and size them for $20. Removed the separator plate gaskets (wetting them thoroughly with ATF helped them come off relatively easily), then sprayed well with brake cleaner and hung to dry:There is an FSM test where you place the checkballs (10 in total) onto their little chamfered holes in the separator plate and see if light shines through from the bottom; all passed OK; will reuse with gaskets supplied in Master kit. Had the test failed, GM now replaces the gasket / plate / gasket with a plate with gaskets pre-bonded to both sides.undoubtedly to ease assembly.

For 97-03 the p/n is 24217552; for 04+ is 24224544. After messing around some more with a meter with the original Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Switch, I am less than 100% confident in reusing it. The normally closed switches (of which the TC switch is one) are not responding as quickly as I'd like, even after more cleaning with contact cleaner. Maybe they are just too corroded.

Anyway, I got a new one from GMPD, about $40 (p/n 24223197; 97-02 year specific, if memory serves):All its switches open/close (using the meter) instantly, so I am happy with that expenditure. Differential assembly installed, using lots of tranny goo to hold all the thrust bearings and washers in place:(Sorry, didn't get a shot of the Case Extension Housing (and new seal) installed and held on with two bolts, only hand-tight for now. One word of warning; if the diffy is not installed right (typically due to one of the bushings or bearings not seated right), the extension housing will not fully seat into the case, and torquing down it's retaining bolts under that circumstance will crack the housing.).

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Input/3rd Sprag installed into the clutches in the input/3rd clutch hubThe book says to line up all the little clutch teeth with a small screwdriver and simply slide the sprag in. I just gooped it up with goo (to make it stay in place during installation), then rotated and 'wiggled' it alot while the clutches lined up one-by-one and the sprag slowly fell into place. You know it's all the way in when the sprag rests on the thrust bearing and is more or less flush with the top clutch plate. This took about an hour. For now I'm using this coated metal one (old left, new right) that goes between the Driven Sprocket Support and the 2nd Clutch Drum:All these other replacement thrust washers will get used in the case cover and sprockets reassembly. Sorry I did not get a pic of the the 2nd Clutch Drum I installed next; it had to be rotated (like the sprag) to get it's clutch plates to line up one-by one and drop the drum into place; though this one only took a minute.

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You know it's fully seated because teeth on the near end of the Reverse Reaction Drum engage teeth inside the 2nd Drum, and the darkened pattern on the outside of the drum where the Reverse Band gripped lines up with the band. Here then is the Driven Sprocket Support installed:Getting that baby into place was tough at this stage, because it's teflon seals have to slip inside the 2nd Drum, while the Input / 3rd's teflon seals have to slip inside the Sprocket Support.

Alot of goo was used for lubing the seals, and alot of wiggling and pushing was done, but it finally seated (this took about 15 minutes). Wear marks on the outside of the Support versus some case protrusions told me exactly how to rotate the Support into it's original orientation.

With a flashlight I could look down inside the 'leg' of the trans (outside all the clutch assemblies) and see that all the bands were still where they should be, and that the reverse reaction drum was still properly engaged. I took the Driven Sprocket and temporarily installed it onto the end of the input clutch hub and was able to hand-rotate all the assemblies; everything moved freely (though with effort) with no wierd noises or hangups.