Iseki Hydraulic Manual Pump
Enerpac's manual pump line features high pressure hydraulic hand and foot pumps designed for portability, durability and ease-of-use. A large selection of hydraulic hand pumps makes it easy to find the most effective compact high pressure pump.
Iseki Hydraulic Manual Pump Manual
Parts manual for Iseki TL2100, TL2300, TL2500 Parts Manuals have exploded views of all parts on the tractor, with numbered pictures giving you great detail on assembly and disassembly. It also serves as a guide when ordering parts. This parts manual can help you out with exploded views of the tractor components so you can see immediately how it all goes back together. This is a reprint of the original factory parts manual. NOTE: This parts manual is written in Japanese. The part numbers and item numbers are in English. I did write earlier to other tractor forum.
No any help from there, so ask from here, if this is more active forum. Parts also needed from EU area.
Massey ferguson 1235 should be technically identican as this iseki. So problem was. When i did dbuy it.
Tractor was running, but not moving. No any feel on clutch pedal 3 point linkage not lifting. ISEKI SERVICE (REPAIR) MANUAL; ISEKI SERVICE (REPAIR). You are looking at an Iseki Service Manual. Iseki TG6370 4in1 loader and.
Featuring an open centre hydraulic. With the demands of todays increasing workloads the Iseki TG Series transmissions. Previous owner said, that aux hydraulics are working. Power steering ok. I split the machine and.
This is copied from other forum. Damage founded. Small bolt missing and it was smashed between flywheel and cluch box.
So when pressing pedal, nothing happens.New clutch kit+ pressure bearing. New threads for shaft+ hard bolt with clue.Clutch shaft From disc to (input gear hst system) -teeth broken Shaft from input gear to Hydraulic transmission -Teeth broken, bearing broken, bores broken and coupling welded earlier. Cover also broken when bearing has wear out. HST shaft not good. 20mm damaged. Should work with extended coupling or if its possible to find Hydraulic transmission main shaft.
4wd shaft + couplings missing now to market place. But where to buy these From EU area. One question more. 3 point linkage not working. Where it does take power? Not working, because these damages of something else? Steering pump has pressure.
And steering is working. Hydraulics reported to be working, but not tested. Could this broken adjjust screw cause malfunction of 3 point linkage?? Tractor has had backhoe, so maybe somebody have close the screw to avoid collision and now when tried to open, it has been broken. I think, I can get it out somehow. If it is not that, can I fix possible problems on 3 point linkage without cutting the tractor again.?
Pictures it seems, that I can open rearend from top, so I think, from there i can fix it, if there is some problems still left. And I have been looking for some dealers, but I believe, these parts (shafts) prices are thousands euros. Dont know the price level, but scaring that prices for new parts are damn high.
I ask also from here. One more problem. And very hard for me to solve without hydraulic flow charts of this tractor. Tractor is started and driven back and forward one meter. However, I did broke 2 o-rings. From both end of working pressure metal pipe (31 and 34 in explosion pic).
Hydraulic Cylinders Manual Pump
Both were old and connections has been open but. Engine sounds that it runs normally and then rpm gets lower. And same again (short periot when it sounds that something is against smooth running. And then some seconds normal like waving. Even when I press clutch that whole power train is disconnected.only thing what can try to stall engine is hydraulic pump taking too much power.
I try to explain. I dont know, but I believe that this tractor has had front loader and backhoe earlier. On right site is hydraulic block (explosion picture number 36). There is other block connected side by side with bolts. I think that is for front loader. On that block one pipe is plugged and welded and two connected together with hose. Before I go to buy plugs and remove that other block I would like to ask question.
Could it be that for front loader (or what ever that block is used for. )there is 2 output and one input.
And 2 outputs is now connected with hose.??? I think loader has been removed after tractor has been broken, so it is possible that somebody has connect hoses just to keep oils in.
Now it try to push full pressure and there is no place for oil to flow? Pressurized air?
Or just remove block and plug holes? Is there one or two? Have to look from explosion pictures. If these blocs are connected like 'serial' I understand bit if blocks are side by side, what can cause problems in circulation? 3-point linkage is not working either. Can lift it very easily from links.
Maybe something is broken also on that or could it be bacause of this hydraulic issue? Atleast pressure pipe continues from that expanded block to block, where is 3 point hitch linkage piston located. Post navigation.
More info needed. Did you shut it down and it won't restart or did it shut itself down? If it shut down, was it out of fuel? Have you made certain the water level in the fuel isn't too high ( if it is, at this point you may have big problems). If it shut itself down with fuel in the tank, most likely you have either water or a fuel restriction (plugged filter, wad of gunk in tank outlet). And like GEO says, making it run on starting fluid is a very bad idea.
Also if it is getting fuel, you get lots of blue smoke during cranking when there is no start. If the smoke isn't there, there is either no fuel or no compression. Can't help you on parts, but I can give a couple of troubleshooting tips. I think you're on the right track, it's probably not getting fuel. Has it run out of fuel lately? If you got air in the fuel lines, you'll have to bleed them. The problem is when the fuel pump discharges into the line, the air compresses and the injector won't fire.
(air will compress, liquid won't, with air in the line the pump can't build enough pressure to lift the injector) The usual method is to crack the fuel line at each injector and crank until you get a solid stream of fuel. You might want to do that anyway, to make sure the pump is working. If that's not it, check to make sure the fuel lines to the pump are clear, the filter is clean and flowing freely, and there are no air leaks. If that's not it, either the pump is shot or the timing is off, and I don't have any pointers there. Hope this helps a little.